Help! My House Is Losing Heat!

NewCo-Fall-IG_V4-1It can be tough to make it through the cold weather if your house is losing heat. Before cold season is upon you, think back to years past. Have you felt like your house is losing heat when the weather cools? Do your bills go up as the mercury goes down? A home energy assessment can show you exactly where your house is losing heat. Here is some expert insight into saving your home’s heat (and energy bills) during the winter.

Step 1: Caulk and Home Sealing

Your home may be your castle, but it’s not a fortress. Cracks and crannies let warm air seep out and cold air seep in. The solution? Home Sealing.

Caulk is a filler used to seal two adjoining materials together. It’s powerful, inexpensive, and easy to for an expert to apply. In most situations, 100% silicone caulk will be the best choice. It’s permanently waterproof, it’s flexible, and it doesn’t shrink or crack.

Where can caulk help? Anywhere you feel that your house is losing heat. If you can see sunlight or feel a draft, caulk! Caulk between masonry and siding, at the ingress of pipes or wires to the house, and around window and door frames. (While you’re at it, you might even get around to that tub-sealing project!)

One more benefit to caulking external cracks in your home: it will prevent further cracking. In the fall and winter, water can get into small spaces and freeze there, creating more damage. So caulk is a solution to both current and future weatherproofing problems.

Step 2: Weatherstrip Sealing

Our energy experts help customers by sealing air leaks detected during a Home Performance Audit. One way we seal these leaks is through weatherstrips. You can save more than 20% on your heating and energy bills by sealing air leaks. If you’ve got a movable surface, you can use weatherstripping rather than caulk to prevent warm air from leaking out.

There are many different kinds of weatherstripping, and your choice will depend on the crevice you’re trying to close. If you can see daylight under your front door, install a door sweep. If the door jambs just aren’t flush, try felt. Secure window sashes with foam tape. Be mindful as the weather cools, and weatherstrip any point of entry where you feel a draft.

The difference between caulk and weatherstripping is that caulk seals two immovable areas, like where the siding meets the chimney. Weatherstripping is good for sealing something that you still need to be able to move, like a door or window.

Step 3: Set Fans Clockwise

If you are looking for an affordable way to save heat on your own, consider turning to your ceiling fans. There’s a switch on the base of your ceiling fan that changes its direction. In the winter, your ceiling fan should turn clockwise, at the lowest speed. That pulls the cooler air up towards the ceiling, so the warm air is displaced and circulates around the room. You’ll feel a little more cozy, which will keep you away from that thermostat. Maintaining proper thermostat temperature settings all season long will prevent overuse of your system — and overbilling of your bank account.

Step 4: HVAC Maintenance

This home maintenance staple is important all year long, but many people don’t get to it until spring cleaning – if at all. If you have forced-air heat, then you rely on your HVAC system to keep your home toasty. A dirty system works harder, so it’s less efficient and more expensive. HVAC maintenance includes the cleaning of all your HVAC parts, checking their functioning, replenishing depleted fluids, and more.

If you haven’t had your HVAC system thoroughly cleaned recently, make it a priority. You can clean the entire system, not just its machinery. An expert will start by changing your air filters and checking for blocked ducts.

There are some parts of your HVAC system that you won’t be able to clean without specialized tools and knowledge. For the most thorough cleaning, contact Newcomb and Company to schedule a service call or to discuss a maintenance agreement. It’s an inexpensive way to save yourself a bundle in the long run.

Need help? Call now.

What Is A Good AFUE Rating?

The AFUE rating, or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency rating, measures the efficiency of your heater. This indicates how well your heater retains the heat it’s producing.  It’s given as the percentage of energy that your boiler or furnace is actually converting into heat that you can use. For example, if your furnace is rated 90%, then 90% of the energy it takes in (via gas or oil) is used to heat your home, while 10% is heat you’re losing. Both furnaces and boilers are given AFUE ratings.

The AFUE rating is affected by many factors, including:

  • The number of heat exchangers
  • The number of burner settings
  • Whether it runs on gas or oil (gas is typically more efficient)
  • The materials
  • The type of exhaust
  • The type of ignition

The higher the AFUE rating is, the more efficient your furnace or boiler will be (and the lower your bills will be, too!).

Obsolete AFUE Rating:  56%-70%

If you have an older furnace or boiler, it may have a very low AFUE rating. An obsolete heater like this should be replaced, since it’s costing you money each month. Typically, a low-efficiency furnace or boiler has some or all of the following characteristics:

  • Non-electronic ignition, so the pilot light is burning all the time.
  • No exhaust fan to control combustion gases.
  • Unsealed combustion, emitting more heated air into the environment rather than keeping it within the system.
  • Heavier materials, like cast iron.
  • One stage (on or off) and one blower speed.

Low AFUE Rating: 71%-79%

Prior to January of 2015, the minimum AFUE rating for a furnace or boiler was 78%. If your system was built prior to 2015, it might have a low AFUE rating. Heating systems with a low AFUE rating tend to have some of the following characteristics:

  • No exhaust fan to optimally direct the combustion gases.
  • Most likely an unsealed-combustion unit.
  • One-speed blowers and single-stage on/off switch.
  • Electronic ignition, so the pilot light isn’t always lit.
  • Somewhat lighter heat exchanger materials, such as steel.

Mid-Range AFUE Rating: 80%-83%

According to the Department of Energy, a mid-efficiency central heating system would have an AFUE rating in this range. Such a system might have these characteristics:

  • Electronic ignition.
  • May have an exhaust fan to control the flow of combustion gases.
  • Smaller size and weight, although the heat exchanger is likely steel.
  • May have two stages: high and low, as well as off.
  • May have a variable-speed blower.

High-Efficiency AFUE Rating: 85%-98.5%

These top-of-the-line heating sources use the latest technology to maximize efficiency. To achieve Energy Star certification, a boiler must have an AFUE of at least 87%. A gas furnace must have a rating of 90% in the Southern U.S. (including North Carolina) and 95% in the Northern U.S. An oil furnace can be Energy Star-certified with an efficiency of 85% or greater. These heat sources typically have:

  • Electronic ignitions
  • Multiple heat exchangers
  • Sealed combustion chambers
  • Modulating capabilities – rather than one or two settings, they can make fine adjustments in heat produced.
  • Variable-speed blowers or an electronically commutated motor fan (ECM).
  • For furnaces, condensing capabilities – the transfer of heat is so complete that water is formed as a byproduct.

What’s The Difference?

While a higher AFUE rating will save you more money in the long run, the savings decrease as you get closer to 100% efficiency. The biggest leap – a 9% savings – seems to occur when you switch from an 80% AFUE system to a 90% AFUE system. Beyond 90%, you’ll save about 1% with each additional percentage point. (So, a 92% AFUE will save you 2% more than a 90% AFUE).

Don’t get too hung up on AFUE ratings when you’re purchasing a new boiler or furnace. Any new appliance you purchase is likely to be significantly more efficient than a unit that’s ten or more years old. Currently, the highest AFUE rating for a furnace is about 98.7%.

Look on the cabinet or the user manual if your furnace or boiler to figure out its AFUE rating. If it’s less than the government-mandated 80%, you may want to consider investing in a new, high-efficiency heating source.

Need help? Call now.

How To Prepare For A Hurricane

NewCo-Hurricane_v3-01Hurricane season is here, and this year is shaping up to be quite a doozy. Although North Carolina isn’t the most common target for hurricanes, we’re not entirely safe – especially if you live in Wilmington or near the coast. Hurricanes can be unpredictable. There are times when a hurricane is supposed to wreak havoc, but barely touches us. On other occasions, the hurricane may take us by surprise.

Prepare for a hurricane now, so you can weather the worst of the storms. This checklist covers the basic preparations you can take both well before a hurricane – and when it’s imminent.

When Hurricane Season Begins

Have an evacuation plan.

The North Carolina Department of Public Safety will have all the information you need on evacuation routes. If evacuation is recommended – leave! Have an evacuation plan in place beforehand, and rehearse it.  Each family member should know exactly what he or she is responsible for bringing.

You should also know in advance where you plan to go. Are there relatives within driving distance? Is there a town you’d love to check out that’s out of the way of the storm? Evacuation doesn’t have to be total chaos. It can even be a last-minute vacation! (Just don’t forget to adjust your thermostat settings.)

Trim your trees.

Keeping the trees trimmed is a pain. After all, those saggy limbs don’t do much harm, except possibly to your curb appeal. But if a hurricane comes calling, you’ll regret that you’ve let those trees get out of hand. Hurricane-force winds can snap entire trees, causing damage to your roof or your cars. Overhanging limbs can tear down gates, break windows, and wreak havoc on your property. If you’re still at home when this happens, it makes the situation a lot more risky.

Get a portable generator.

A portable generator can supply you with power for your basic needs for 200 hours; that’s over a week! When your cell phone and laptop die, your food is starting to spoil, and you’re desperately in need of a cup of coffee, that portable generator is going to be a real lifesaver.

Prepare For a Hurricane

Have an emergency plan.

If you don’t have time to evacuate, pick a place on the ground floor of your home and stock it with emergency supplies. The location should be as far as possible from any windows – a hall bathroom is ideal. Prepare for a hurricane by putting flashlights, candles, and matches in the room ahead of time, so they’re already there. Bring any necessary supplies or medications you might need, so you don’t need to leave the shelter during the storm.

If the storm is expected to be particularly bad, you may want to have a mattress nearby. You can use the mattress to protect yourself from debris if it your roof is damaged or destroyed.

Stock supplies.

If your neighborhood is affected by a hurricane, your whole area may be without power, water, or telephone service for quite some time. Stocking gallons of water and lots of canned goods ensures that you’ll have enough food to last you through the disaster if it becomes impossible to leave the immediate area. Think ahead. Every family has a different needs; what can’t you do without?

Hours Before the Hurricane

Cover your windows.

What’s the most vulnerable point of entry in your home? Your windows. Glass doesn’t stand a chance against hurricane-strength winds or flying objects. Once your windows are open to the elements, water damage is a given. Flying glass is dangerous, as are any projectiles those winds might fling through your windows. The pressure change inside your home can even lift your roof off or collapse your walls.

If you don’t have storm shutters, nail or screw sheets of plywood to the outside of your house (not your window frames!). Use thick plywood (⅝” should do the trick) and secure the boards to an area several inches wider than your windows on all sides. You can even pre-drill the holes and keep the pre-cut plywood on hand so you’re ready if you need it.

Secure potential flying objects.

The more you can do to prepare for a hurricane, the better. Hurricane winds are at least 75 miles per hour, and can exceed 150 miles per hour. Shingles, tree branches, stray yard toys, downspouts, loose gutters, and even your garage door could become weaponized in winds of that speed, shattering windows and doing tremendous damage to your home. The breach of an attached garage will cause air pressure changes that can blow your roof off or create cracks in your siding. Make sure you secure your garage door. When it comes to anything outside, if you can nail it down or bring it inside, do so!

Garage doors in storm-prone areas are required to meet building code requirements in order to stand up to most hurricanes. However, you also need to make sure your mounting area and track are secured with heavy-gauge brackets. If your garage door isn’t up to snuff, secure it with a bracing system — you’ll be able to find a good one at your local hardware store. Likewise, make sure your gutters and downspouts are attached to the house and ready to drain.

Fill your gas tank.

As you prepare for a hurricane, don’t forget to fill up your gas tank. Top it off before the storm hits in case you need to get out of town quickly. Make a stop at the gas station a priority as soon as you hear that a bad storm is on its way.

While you’re at it, keep an (actual) map in the car. You never know which public utilities might be down, and that includes cell phone towers. If you’re driving out of town, you just might need a good old-fashioned paper map in your glovebox.

Count on Newcomb and Company

Once the dust has settled and the trees are cleared, contact Newcomb and Company if your HVAC, heating, or plumbing systems need repair. If you need emergency service during a storm, you can reach us on our emergency line at 919-833-7731.

In the more than 60 years we’ve been in operation in North Carolina, we’ve seen our fair share of bad hurricanes. We know what it takes to prepare for a hurricane – and how to get your home back up and running. You aren’t just our customers. You’re our neighbors. And you can count on us. After the storm ends, our work begins.

Need help? Call now.

Ductless Vs. Ducted Heat Pumps

What is the difference between and Ducted and Ductless Heat Pump?

In the battle of ductless vs. ducted heat pumps, there isn’t an obvious winner. Each has its own pros and cons. Here, Newcomb and Company outline the best situation for each. But first, the basics.

What Is a Heat Pump?

At its essence, a heat pump takes heat from one area and moves it to another. This is ‘greener’ and more efficient than burning fuels to create heat, as a furnace does. If you’re buying new, a heat pump will typically cost less than a furnace.

Despite the name, a heat pump doesn’t just heat. Your heat pump can function as an air conditioner, too. It simply reverses the process, removing heat from the air in your home and sending it outdoors.

However, because a heat pump moves air from one place to another, it won’t work well in places where there isn’t much heat to be found. If you live in a cold climate where it’s regularly below freezing, a heat pump wouldn’t be a good choice.

Ductless Heat Pumps

Ductless heat pumps, also called mini-split heat pumps or mini-splits, work by blowing the heated or cooled air directly into the room. These systems are better for heating smaller spaces, since they aren’t able to push the air throughout the home.


There are many times when a ductless heat pump is the best option.

  • Ductless heat pumps are minimally intrusive. They only require a small hole in the wall (although they are still not a DIY project!)
  • They are much less expensive than installing ducts.
  • Ductless heat pumps can easily be customized to create the optimum temperature settings for each room.
  • They are efficient. You can cut heating costs by 60% compared to electric resistance-based systems. Cooling costs are 30% less than traditional air conditioners.
  • You may be eligible for a rebate from your power company.
  • It can be installed anywhere – on the floor, the wall, or the ceiling.


Unfortunately, individually heating your rooms with a ductless heat pump has several drawbacks to consider.

  • While safer and arguably less ugly than a window air conditioner, most mini-splits aren’t winning any home design awards. They stick out from the walls and are obtrusive, no matter how sleekly they’re made.
  • If you want to change the temperature of your house, you need to change each thermostat individually.
  • A professional, experienced installer is a must. Your installer should use a formula to determine the size of the unit you need. Correct sizing is essential for an efficient system.
  • Installation can be expensive.
  • They only heat or cool small spaces.
  • They are high maintenance. Filters must be washed monthly, or you could end up needing an expensive professional cleaning.

Ducted Heat Pumps

Air-air heat pumps move heat from the outdoor air into your home (or vice versa). A ground source heat pump, or geothermal pump, uses the ground (or a body of water) as its heating source. After the heat is taken from its source, it is distributed throughout your home via a system of ducts.


Ducted heat pumps are what most people think of when (or if) they think about heat pumps. Having ductwork in your home can be convenient.

  • They’re efficient and effective. An air-source heat pump can deliver up to three times more heat energy than the electrical energy it consumes. Ground source heat pumps are even more efficient.
  • The duct system is convenient. A homeowner can extend the duct system throughout the home, so only one unit is needed to heat the entire building (depending on size).
  • Vents can be closed in rooms that aren’t in use.
  • The ducts are hidden by the walls, so there aren’t any unsightly components in view.
  • This is the standard for heat pumps, so most contractors will be well-versed in installation.


Although ducted heat pumps are common, they aren’t ideal for every situation.

  • Installing ductwork after the fact is expensive, disruptive, and time consuming.
  • Dust can linger in the ductwork, irritating allergies and making a mess.
  • Vermin and rodents can use your ductwork to enter your home.
  • Your ducts can become blocked, necessitating repairs.
  • Leaky ducts decrease the efficiency of your heat pump – and increase your energy bills. The EPA estimates that 20-30% of air moving through a ducted system is lost through leaks and poor connections.

So, Who Wins?

Well, it all depends on your situation and what’s important to you. A ducted heat pump might be right if you:

A ductless heat pump could be a better choice if you:

  • Are heating and cooling a smaller space, like an addition or outbuilding
  • Have several rooms in your house that aren’t used regularly
  • Suffer from dust allergies
  • Want a minimally invasive system for a historic or older home
  • Would like more granular control of the temperature in each room

Still don’t know if you should be looking at ductless vs. ducted heat pumps or need heat repair in Raleigh? Contact Newcomb and Company. Our experienced technicians will review the details of your case, so you can find the solution that’s right for you.


Need help? Call now.

Why Does My AC Blow Warm Air?

Why Is My AC Unit Blowing Warm Air?

You turn on your air conditioner and stick your face in front of it, anticipating that icy cool blast of refreshing air. Instead, you feel a stream of warm air like a giant’s fetid breath on your face. Is anything worse?

There are a few reasons why your air conditioning unit may not be working properly. Here, we answer your most important questions about malfunctioning air conditioning units. Why does my AC blow warm air? And how can I fix my air conditioning unit?

Why Does My AC Blow Warm Air?

To understand why your air conditioner is blowing warm air, you need to know how the air conditioning unit functions. (See a term you don’t know? Look it up in our HVAC glossary!)

An air conditioner uses refrigerant to cool the warm air in your home by converting it from a liquid to a gas. The refrigerant absorbs the heat of the air as it changes. Then, a compressor pressurizes the gas, creating more heat. The heat is pushed outdoors via the condenser coils, and the gas changes back to a liquid. Refrigerant is at the heart of the air conditioning process. A problem with the refrigerant could be the reason why your AC is blowing warm air.

Your Refrigerant Is Low

Refrigerant cools the air in your AC unit. If it’s low, air will still circulate through your unit but it won’t cool as it converts from a gas to a liquid. It will simply stay the same temperature as it circulates through the system. You might need a refill of your refrigerant, or it might be leaking somewhere.

Your Air Conditioner Coils Are Frozen

If you aren’t keeping the coils clean through AC unit maintenance or you aren’t changing the air filter regularly, the coils can freeze. The dirt and debris prevents airflow over the evaporator so the cool air can’t escape. Unfreezing or deicing your AC unit isn’t a DIY job. Only qualified experts should handle refrigerant. If your air conditioning unit is freezing up, it could be causing it to blow warm air. Call the professionals to diagnose and fix your problem.

You Don’t Have Power

If your compressor and condenser (located on your outside unit) don’t have power, the air conditioner blows warm air. A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker kills power to the HVAC system. It could also occur if the emergency shutoff switch is hit accidentally. (Learn more about where to find these switches here.) If your outside unit isn’t turned on, you’ll end up with warm air blowing through the unit.

The Thermostat Isn’t Set Properly

File this one under #HVACFails.

You’ve probably checked this, but is your thermostat set correctly? If you’re in heating mode rather than cooling, you’re going to get warm air. Make sure that your thermostat is in the proper mode and that the temperature is correct. While you might feel silly, this is one of the easiest problems to fix!

Check Out 5 Reasons Your AC Isn’t Working Here

How Do I Fix My Air Conditioner?

The fix, of course, depends on the problem. If you’ve checked that your thermostat is properly set and that your unit has power, the next step is to clean the unit. Change the air filter. Brush any debris away from the condenser coils and hose them down. Your outside unit needs at least two feet of cleared space around it.

If your AC unit is blowing warm air after these DIY fixes, it’s time to call in the experts. You may be low on refrigerant or you might have a refrigerant leak. The condenser could be failing. Your compressor may not be working properly. An air conditioning unit is a complex system with several parts. If you need AC repair in Raleigh or Wilmington,  Newcomb and Company technician can quickly figure out why your AC unit is blowing warm air. We’ll fix the problem so you can get back to enjoying your cool, comfortable home.

Need help? Call now.

Geothermal Pipes: How Geothermal Pumps Work

A geothermal heat pump (also called a ground source heat pump) transfers heat between your home and the ground. Traditional air conditioners use the outside air to heat and cool your home. Geothermal pumps are typically more efficient and less expensive to operate than traditional air-source heat pumps. Initial installation is much costlier, but the Department of Energy reports that consumers can recoup those savings within five or ten years.

How It Works

A pump circulates water (often mixed with antifreeze) through geothermal pipes. These pipes are buried next to the building. As this fluid travels through the geothermal pipes, heat is either given off into the earth (in cooling mode) or removed from the earth (in heating mode).

The heated or cooled fluid travels through the geothermal pipes to the heat pump, which is located inside the home. The heat pump helps to redistribute the heated or cooled air throughout the home via a system of ducts. In this regard, it’s very similar to a conventional HVAC system.

Image courtesy of

The Scoop on Geothermal Pipes

Geothermal pipes need to be thick enough that they are structurally sound, but thin enough that the heat exchange system works efficiently. Typically, two thicknesses of geothermal pipes are used: a thin pipe for the coil, and thicker pipes for the bends and headers. Geothermal pipes should be made of high density polyethylene for maximum system longevity.

System Setup

Geothermal pipes can be installed in one of four designs, depending on the size of your yard, soil conditions, and access to water.

Horizontal Closed Loop

This is one of the least expensive configurations of geothermal pipes. The pipes are shallowly buried – about seven or eight feet deep. The loops coil horizontally across the land. Because it’s a horizontal configuration, it requires a significant amount of land, typically over an acre. This setup is ideal for areas with high moisture content, but not optimal if your top layer of soil is dry sand or gravel.

Vertical Closed Loop

A vertical closed loop has geothermal pipes that are coiled vertically rather than horizontally. You may not need as much piping, since ground temperatures become more consistent deeper in the earth. However, they are more difficult to service and costly to install, since they are buried more deeply.

Body of Water Closed Loop

This type of loop is only possible if the geothermal pipes can be submerged entirely in a body of water, like a lake or pond. Instead of burying the pipes in the ground, one supply pipe leads to the body of water. The coils are looped underwater rather than in the ground. Any installation contractor should be experienced in this unique type of installation. It may require permits or approval from environmental authorities to build a lake or pond closed loop system. If this type of system is available, it is typically the least expensive option as there isn’t as much digging.

Open Loop

An open loop system connects geothermal pipes to a well. Heat is extracted from the well water rather than the ground itself. The well water is pumped to the heat pump via a supply well, and then returned to a second well. This type of system is rarely ideal because it requires additional pumping power if the well is particularly deep. You also need to make sure your heat pump is regularly cleaned of minerals found in the well water.

Is a Geothermal Heat Pump a Good Choice?

It depends. If you have a lot of land or a big space to heat and cool, a geothermal system can give you a quick return on your investment. They’re environmentally friendly and have a long life expectancy. But they can be expensive to install and repair, so they aren’t a top choice for homeowners in the United States – yet. These quiet, invisible powerhouses are already popular abroad. With new tax credits, demand for the technology is expected to boom in the coming years.

Want to learn more about geothermal pipes and heating systems?  Call a Newcomb and Company technician, and we’ll answer all of your questions.



Need help? Call now.

Is Ductless Air Conditioning a Do-It-Yourself Project?

Do-it-yourself projects are all the rage, and for good reason. After all, why pay someone to install a ductless air conditioner if you can manage it on your own?

Unfortunately for the handymen and women among us, an HVAC install isn’t something you should undertake yourself. Even experienced do-it-yourself mavens need an expert for ductless air conditioning system installation. Consider these factors.

You Will Void the Warranty

If you opt for do-it-yourself ductless air conditioning installation, you are highly likely to void the warranty. If your air conditioner breaks, the company will ask about installation. Improper installation (e.g., one not performed by an HVAC technician) means your warranty is worthless.

You Might Need a Permit

Ductless air conditioning units are a popular choice in older homes or for people who are building an addition. But installing ductless air conditioning may require a permit. An HVAC contractor can tell you if you need a permit for your ductless air conditioning install. At Newcomb and Company, our technicians guide you through this process. In many cities, only a licensed contractor can obtain an HVAC installation permit.

Why does a permit matter? If your HVAC breaks and you don’t have a permit, your warranty may be invalid. Even if it doesn’t break, a permit is crucial. Want to sell your home? Buyers are going to want to see those permits. Getting a permit after the fact is expensive, time consuming, and potentially destructive. Your inspector might need to take down part of the wall to ensure your ductless air conditioning installation do-it-yourself job was up to snuff.

You’ll Need to Handle Refrigerant

Cracking open the walls and fishing wires through may not be difficult for the savvy DIYer, but handling refrigerant? That’s another story. Only EPA-certified technicians are able to purchase refrigerants, since they are ozone-depleting substances. If you do get your hands on refrigerant, you’ll need to be careful. The rules and regulations for managing it are complex.

You May Pay More

Botched ductless air conditioning installation do-it-yourself projects aren’t uncommon. And a failed DIY project can cost double what you would have spent to hire an expert in the first place. Hopeful home installers may become overwhelmed by the cost and time it takes to complete an installation project. Calling in an expert at this point can be more expensive than going with one from the start.

You Need the Right Size

Choosing the proper ductless air conditioner for your project is far more complex than just measuring square footage. You might have two rooms with the same footprint, but if one has a gas stove and picture windows, you’ll need a bigger HVAC. A certified technician can perform Manual J load calculations to take climate, windows, and other factors into account so your system works properly.

Small Errors = Big Consequences

Many people choose ductless air conditioners because they offer significant benefits. They’re less expensive to install (even when you aren’t taking a DIY approach). ENERGY STAR certified ductless mini-split heat pumps can cut cooling costs by 30%. They also use 60% less energy than other heating systems. That’s a real savings…

…if they’re properly installed. You won’t see those benefits if your ductless air conditioner isn’t affixed well. Small gaps and cracks let that air – and those cost savings – leak out.

Is a Ductless Air Conditioning Installation Do-It-Yourself Project For You?

Still not convinced? Before you head to the hardware store, do one thing. Call Newcomb and Company. We’ll come out to your home and give you an estimate. We’ll explain exactly what we do when we install a ductless air conditioner, so you know what you’re getting into if you decide to DIY. That way, you’ll go into your project armed with good advice and your eyes wide open.

Need help? Call now.